Cutting out the house. House sides shown here. Windows will be cut out after the house is assembled and taped. I want to get the house tacked together for reference as I lay out the deck framing.
Thursday, May 3, 2007
Getting Ready to Start Deck Framing
Right side up and the cutouts for the bulkhead hatches are made. Temporary forms are back in to keep the hull tweaked to the correct shape until the deck is on.

Cutting out the house. House sides shown here. Windows will be cut out after the house is assembled and taped. I want to get the house tacked together for reference as I lay out the deck framing.
Cutting out the house. House sides shown here. Windows will be cut out after the house is assembled and taped. I want to get the house tacked together for reference as I lay out the deck framing.
Friday, April 13, 2007
And a Little Tape on the Stem and Stern
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Cloth Applied to Bottom
Two layers of 10 oz cloth have been applied to the bottom. Topsides look messy at this point but it won't matter after cloth is applied and the hull is faired and finished. To reduce sanding, the drips were brushed &/or squeeged out right away. Drips were knocked down while the epoxy was still soft.

I am using West epoxy and went with 206 slow hardner even though the shop was cold. Temperature in the low 30s this weekend, so I prewarmed the hull with an electric heater from underneath and had the resin & hardner warm before mixing. (I have a heated room adjacent for mixing and use an electric heating pad under the containers.) After the 1st layer was wetted out, I turned the heater under the boat off to extend working time and avoid bubbles.
I am using West epoxy and went with 206 slow hardner even though the shop was cold. Temperature in the low 30s this weekend, so I prewarmed the hull with an electric heater from underneath and had the resin & hardner warm before mixing. (I have a heated room adjacent for mixing and use an electric heating pad under the containers.) After the 1st layer was wetted out, I turned the heater under the boat off to extend working time and avoid bubbles.
Saturday, April 7, 2007
Preparing to Glass the Bottom
10 oz cloth is cut with a generous lap up the side. The large lap accomodates outside use of the other half of the 4 oz glass used for the interior. The additional strength above the chine won't hurt either. This is going to be a beach boat and needs to be able to cope with that environment with a certain amount of grace when the skipper is lacking in such. A second layer is cut with a slightly larger overlap.
Friday, April 6, 2007
Interior Glassed & Taped
The interior is glassed and taped. I elected to not apply cloth to the bow and stern compartments and instead taped those seams with 6" biaxial tape. It doesn't look as nice but I am thinking the strength will be adequate.

The tape on the interior chine joint disappears pretty well. The interior will get at least one more coat of epoxy.

The tape on the interior chine joint disappears pretty well. The interior will get at least one more coat of epoxy.

Sunday, April 1, 2007
Fillets & Glassing
Getting ready to apply epoxy fillets to the main cabin. The fillets are masked off since I am thinking of leaving the salon bright (natural wood). Masking the the fillets helps make a tidy job.

The fillets are in and a layer of 10 oz glass has been applied to the bottom. The bulkhead faces already have a layer of 4oz. The interior sides will each get a layer of 4 oz and the a layer of tape will finish the joints.
The fillets are in and a layer of 10 oz glass has been applied to the bottom. The bulkhead faces already have a layer of 4oz. The interior sides will each get a layer of 4 oz and the a layer of tape will finish the joints.
Monday, March 26, 2007
Stitched, Tacked & Sheered
All stitched up.


After checking alignment, chines and bulkeads are tacked in place with thickened epoxy dispensed via a large syringe. This shows the bow section with a temporary form.

Sheer battens are ripped from Sitka Spruce, then fitted. They are glued and held in place with temporary screws. It might have been better tack the chines after installing the sheer batten .

After checking alignment, chines and bulkeads are tacked in place with thickened epoxy dispensed via a large syringe. This shows the bow section with a temporary form.
Sheer battens are ripped from Sitka Spruce, then fitted. They are glued and held in place with temporary screws. It might have been better tack the chines after installing the sheer batten .

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